Shamask Exibition at PMA

John Krynick drew my attention to this exhibition at the Philadelphia Museum of Art that some of you might want to see during Winter Break.

Ronaldus Shamask: Form, Fashion, Reflection

October 6, 2012 - March 10, 2013

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Ronaldus Shamask (American, born Netherlands 1945) burst onto the runway with thoughtfully spare, minimalist works during a time of buoyant excess. Disregarding trends, Shamask drew on his background in illustration, architecture, theater, and dance as well as collaborations with choreographers and artists to create a timeless body of work that paved the way for the minimalist fashions of today. This exhibition includes iconic Shamask clothing, as well as works made specifically for this presentation, including translucent paper renditions shown as mirror images of the garments to reveal form of construction. The installation also includes a “mood wall” that reimagines the artist’s design process using fashion and dance costume sketches, fabrics, color swatches, and visual references that serve as his inspiration. Video clips from fashion shows and dance performances showcase his costumes and collaborative work undertaken with artists such as Jennifer Bartlett, Arman, and Michele Oka Doner.

Fiber Alumni Rebecca Nagle and Hannah Brancato, in collaboration with a variety of folks, recently launched a culture-jamming website: PINK LOVES CONSENT that certainly has generated some avid discussion about sexuality and intimacy, advertising and women's bodies:

Here are just a few responses in the media:


Huffington Post

Jezebel

For Amber

These are images of New Orleans based costume designer Jenny Campbell in two variations of her snow globe wig!

for Kali & Megan / costume by Liz Vandal

 

For Camille // Mariko Mori

You may be interested in the work of Mariko Mori.

Various Artists and Designers

Some artists for inspiration:

Peripathetic Paraphernalia by Maaike Fransen

from b-fies

The work of Chinese designer Ma Ke

Some other images as inspiration for styling: 

From the book Wilder Mann by Charles Freger

The Little Theater of Dolls:

you may want to spend some time on the pinterest page of Elizabeth Whiting, New Zealand Costume Designer


From the collaborative, community-based projects of Poncili Company from Puerto Rico

In MOTION

Following are links to student shows from the past, as well as other shows from designers. These might be useful as you think about choreography, music and styling in the weeks ahead.


2009

Kaelie Barnard's Forty Centuries Look Down on Us

Marla Parker's Victory Girls

2010

Sarah Konigsburg's Creation

Katie Coble's ROOST

Erin McAleavy's  Human/Nature

2011
Kyle England's 23:26

Nolla Yuan Dreamscape 30:48

Kate Weintraub's 1:29:22

Sharela Bonfield's FlyGirlRemix 1:39


2012
Antonina Clarke's HUSTLE


OTHERS:

Clips from Alexander McQueen's Runway shows with Commentary by Andrew Bolton, curator at the Met's Costume Collection

for more shows visit the archives at Alexander McQueen

For Miranda and Hayley: Comme De Garcon 2012

Thom Browne  FW 2011 

Comme de Garcon 2011

Galliano Fall Winter 2011-12  Menswear

Viktor & Rolf 2010-11

Make Up Artist Alex Box

Gareth Pugh  2011

Thom Browne 2012

Viktor & Rolf 2008

Interview with Iris vanHerpen including scenes of her show 2012

Bernhard Wilhelm's website and video for his 2013 collection

You may be interested in this short documentary about Casio Ono and Anti-Christ - which focuses in part on their stage personas and how they dress up to perform.

Central Saint Martins Student Run Fashion Blog

Check out this blog and specifically this post focused on Hayley Grundmann's - one of the students - collection. The interview includes the designers' inspiration collages and sketches, concept development notes, material explorations, runway shows and photo shoots!

Peter Pilotto // PRINTS

For those of you utilizing digital prints in your respective collections, this is a critical designer to view: Peter Pilotto

Color of Pomegranates

I also mentioned The Color of Pomegranates by Armenian film director Sergei Paradjanov (1968).  Regardless what kind of movement format you are planning on for your show, it may be helpful to watch scenes from this film. Pay attention to the way bodies in space are used to create an image in a frame, and how pacing, color and emphasis are used to draw your eye to certain areas in the frame. 

Pina Bausch

I mentioned the choreographer Pina Bausch in class last week.  I thought her work might be of particular interest to Allina and Erin, based on what you have communicated about your respective collections. These are clips from theater productions and a recent documentary made about the choreographer's work by the renowned Wim Wenders. Consider the use of gravity, emphasis, the syncopation of stillness and movement, as well as the framing of moments in a kind of tableaux.

Some of you might be interested in the work of Alicia Framis, who addresses contemporary political and social issues through the use of clothing and performance. The runway, dance and fashion often serve as frames of reference for her work.

 

My Barbarians

You might be in the projects and various explorations of the Los Angeles based performance and multi-media collective, My Barbarian.

 

 

Megan Whitmarsh may be most known to many of you as an artist working with embroidery and plush forms. She recently completed a residency where she worked with My Barbarian, a performance troupe from LA. Here are a few examples of the resulting work. More can be found here.

Check out images and video about the new, inflatable bike helmet ("The invisible bike helmet").

Lauren Clay

Marjolein Dallinga

Hiromi Tango // for Megan and Kali and Taylor and Grace

hoarder fashion

garment accumulation

object cocoon

encrusted body

More here. 

For Carrie // and all

PACO RABBANE 1969 fashions. Note the similarity of the space and staging to the show in the opening sequence of "Qui etes vous, Polly Magoo?"

I also referenced a contemporary accessories designer whose work is highly conceptual. I could not recall her name - Una Burke. She is a recent graduate of Central Saint Martins and the collection "Retreat" that I was referring to can be seen here.

 Russian constructivist designer whose name escaped me. The artist was Alexandra Exter, and the film "Aelita: Queen of Mars" a 1924 sci-fi movie.